Ideal 6550 95 Ep Manual

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Ideal 6550-95EP Guillotine The Ideal 6550-95EP guillotine comes with automatic clamp and programmable “EP” power backgauge. It features two programmable keys for quick setting of frequently needed measurements and electronic hand wheel for manual backgauge positioning with infinitely variable speed control from slow to fast motion. Main Headquarters. 800-243-9226 Whitaker Brothers Business Machines, Inc. 3 Taft Court Rockville, MD 20850 Fax: 301-354-3034. Ideal Guillotine service contact Mal Graphics Australia 0417 042 341. Ideal Guillotine paper - Ideal Electric Guillotines - Foot controlled Ideal Guillotines like the Ideal 5222 Digicut Guillotine and Ideal Manual Guillotines. Ideal Guillotines are suitable for commercial, office and Schools. UniqueID - Read ideal-6550-95-ep-service-manual Hardcover. PALS WRITTEN EXAM QUESTIONS 33 QUESTI Add Comment ideal-6550-95-ep-service-manual Edit. OWV - Read Online.
*Ideal 6550-95 Ep Manual
*Ideal 6550-95 Ep Service Manual Pdf
Cutting machineGuillotina IDEAL 6550-95 EP
PROGRAMMABLE GUILLOTINE
650 mm cutting length
Electro-mechanical blade drive
Automatic clamping system (clamp can be lowered or raised independently from blade)
Power backgauge with fully programmable ”EP“ backgauge control module and digital measurement readout
Digital display for measurement readout in cm or inches (display accurate to 1/10 mm or 1/100 inch)
10-button key pad for presetting of measurement
Memory key for repeat cuts
Programmable “EP” backgauge control module for 9 programs with 9 steps in each program (up to 9 repeat cuts can be integrated into a program as one single program step)
Setting of program steps via “Start” button
“SET” function key for reference measurement
Programmable EJECT function – for pushing out the paper
Two programmable keys for quick setting of frequently needed measurements
Self-diagnosis system with error indication on display
Electronic hand wheel for manual backgauge positioning with infinitely variable speed control (from very slow to very fast)
Optical cutting line
Clamp guided on both sides for evenly distributed clamping pressure
Spindle guided backgauge for precise positioning
Adjustable backgauge with narrow separations and plastic gliders
Two side lays each on front and rear tables.
Solid steel blade carrier and adjustable blade guides.Description
The purpose of this KT88 / KT66 /6550 / KT90 / KT120 page is to give an overview about what KT66, KT88. KT90 and types and brands exist, and what you can do with the this tube. Also the most common electrical circuits are given for KT88 and 6550. For a collection of datasheets, follow the link to 4tubes.com at the top menu. For this, click at 4tubes.com on the picture manufacturer’s scans. CONTENTSHistory of KT88Chapter 2KT66KT88GETTEROLOGYMATCHING THE KT88Not really off topic: The TT21 and GU50 tubeTHE KT88 NEVER ENDING RE-BRANDING LISTTHE KT88 NEVER ENDING ’NEW VERSION’ LISTTHE KT88 OLD PRODUCTION LISTTHE KT88 CURRENT PRODUCTION LISTTHE BIG TUBE FACTORY LISTKT88 Art ImpressionTesting of KT88 with the L3-3 tube tester Chapter 46550Not really off topic: The 8417 tubeKT90Chapter 6The infamous KT94 and KT100KT120KT88 datasheetsKT88 LinksHistory of KT886L6 by RCA, was one of the very first power beam tetrodes and arguably the most successful one in history, spawning countless derivatives (including transmitting versions of the tube: 807 and 1625). Actually, the beam tetrode was not invented by RCA but by two EMI engineers in England (Cabot Bull and Sidney Rodda) who found in 1932 a clever way around the Philips pentode patent (Gilles Holst and Bernhard D.H. Tellegen, 1926) by adding two beam forming plates to a tetrode, thereby inventing a ‘’kinkless tetrode.’’ RCA and EMI having a design-share agreement, RCA picked the design for their ground-breaking series of metal tubes launched in 1936.The age of audio tube inventions has ended around 1936, and for the non audio tubes, as far as I know only the Klystron and the Travallig Wave tube were invented. I would call the frame grid an excellent idea, but no break trough kind of invention. After this, there was only refinement and miniaturization, which are not inventions. Moreover, miniaturization is always at the cost of good tube curves, because of tolerance issues becoming more dominant. Historically, there has always been competition between Europe and the USA, breaking things down to a level, such as the refusal to use a metric system in the USA, or the refusal in Europe to set industrial standards. Of course each side invented their own tube sockets, as if there were not enough of those yet. Even today it can be very clearly observed that a popular tube socket will make a tube more accepted, and vice versa. The most popular socket is certainly the octal socket, though technically speaking it is not the best.Add to this, the Europeans have patented the pentode. So for 25 years, the Americans had to pay a licence or find another solution. Well, and as things are with competition, they tried another solution, called the beam tetrode. A beam tetrode is a work around the pentode patent, and has no other purpose. A beam tetrode works like a pentode, but has the third grid replaced by deflection plates. That works also, but still not as nice a real third grid. However, the beam tetrode did it’s job and the best know family member of this kind is probably the 6L6. Today 6L6 is used mainly in guitar amplifiers, because of it’s ’distorted’ sound. After the patents ran out, the USA gave up on the beam tetrodes, and real pentodes were made there as well. I want to put up front this situation with the pentode patent, because it is often forgotten, but still many of the tubes and developments resulted from this situation. In Europe the EL34 was ’the’ big pentode which was the result of a long evaluation. It starting with the AL1, the first large output pentode, for radios. After that AL4 was developed. Then with 6.3Volts EL3 came and with the coming of the octal sockets, EL34 was born. In the USA it was the more sloppy 6L6 that won the race. The EL34 is a real pentode, and the 6L6 was the beam tetrode, and also the ’El Cheapo’. In the UK there was the KT66 invented which was a better quality 6L6. After this in the USA from the 6L6 the larger 6550 was derived and in Europe from the KT66 the larger KT88 was derived . M audio firewire 410 review. Saying that KT66 and 6L6 are almost the same that leaves us with four very popular power pentodes. Any other differences are just playing with numbers and pin-connections. The end of the evaluation is the KT88 and the crown is the EL156. However, EL156 was a part of the socket type variation war, every country trying no make OODST sockets. (Our Own Damn Socket Type). Many really great tubes got forgotten before they had a chance to get remembered. In the list of forgotten belong beauties like the EL3n, but also EL156 and EL509, and GU50. The EL156 never had a breakthrough because of the socket. This is a pity, because the EL156 socket is much nicer than Octal. It has a guide pin like Octal, but then 10 pins with clear positioning too. So unlike with Octal, no idiot can press in the tube in the wrong position, by using two hands. So any broken off guide pin cannot occur with EL156. After El156 there was a side step called EL509 which was unique because it had a frame grid and Zirconium gettering. However, it uses a magnoval socket, another socket type people didn’t want anymore. . AL1Mother of all Audio Power PENTODES. EL3n
Smaller pre-type of EL34. Beautiful coke bottle glass, and perfect pentode inside. No NOS spotted, but good used tubes are cheap. Collector’s item. 6L6
Low cost, reliable tube. Cheap and good beam tetrode, with some distortion though. breakthrough of the beam tetrode. KT66Better construction 6L6, made in UK . This is a beam tetrode. KT stands for ’Kinkless Tetrode’. Better construction 6L6, made in USA 5881Better construction 6L6, made in USAReal pentode Can do higher voltage. Works very nice in Class A also.6550Beam tetrode. Upgrade of 6L6, designed by TUNG-SOL (USA).KT88
Beam tetrode. Upgrade of KT66, designed by M-OV (GEC, UK). KT stands for ’Kinkless Tetrode.’
KT88 and 6550 are very similar tubes.KT90
Original idea by EI - Yugoslavia. This is modified EL519 which works like a KT88. This never became very popular, though perhaps it deserved better.
Off-Topic: They also did some experiments later, to replace 300B by a modified EL519. It really works! I have one of their R&D experiments here in my collection The heater is connected to the cathode, same as with GZ34. So called higher power KT88. Part numbers are abused by the Chinese. Can be anything from a KT88 to a 6550, with a larger glass bulb.KT120This tube is no KT88. It draws more heater current, and it has another operating point. The operating point being ’not KT88’ shows to me this was knocked together, by using existing tools. With dedicated tools, a real high power KT88 could be made, compatible to old versions.KT150This tube is no KT88. Even bigger than KT120EL509Switching tube for TV deflection, generally referred to as Sweep tube. Can do very high plate current peaks, can withstand extreme heat, also due to magnoval socket. Looks like a larger EL34, but linearity is a compromise as with all switching tubes. EL156Original audio tube. Something like very large EL34, but 10 pin socket German army tube. Larger than EL34, but with army socketGU-50Russian army tube. Same as EL152, but yet another socket. Best and finest tube of this list. Strong a s tank.SECRET TIP!Pictures herePart 2) KT66
The 7581/A tube is an industrial version of the 6L6GC.
This can be called the American equivalent to the British KT-66, but audiophiles have distrust against anything industrial and military, just because they believe industrial products sound not musical, and because military sound aggressive. Yet this tube is much sought after still for guitar amplifiers, which abuse the tubes as a matter of principle. Ratings of 7581 are roughly the same as the 6L6GC while the 7581A has higher ratings at some points. The 7581 has a plate voltage rating of 500 V--35 watts (5 watts more than the 6L6GC) and a screen rating of 450V--5 watts.
This the KT66, made by MO Valve, England. This pair is from 1970, and was used into the legendary QUAD amplifiers.
KT66 (KT stands for Kinless Tetrode) however was marketed from the beginning as an audio tube, with a whole series of excellent schematics included in the original data sheet. This was a clever piece of marketing.

This is the same tube, but here in a black glass version. Black glass is electrically better, because it guides electrostatic charge away from the inside of the glass. When you really like the physics of tubes, this is the preferred version. When you like to see something glowing inside, this is not the preferred version.
A close up from black glass KT66

The 5881 is another industrial grade 6L6. It has Zirconium coated plates, making the plates act as a getter. The screen grid was carbon coated, giving it some overload of capacity (The total is 3 Watt!) . The control grid is gold plated, giving it lower leakage. Cathode is stand-by proof. Low leakage socket. How do we know all of this? From the above paper :) Part 3) KT88
Designed by the General Electric Co. Ltd., Magnet House, Kingsway, London WC2KT88 Connections:Pin1Metal Shield RingHeaterPin3PlateScreen gridPin5Control Gridnot connectedPin7HeaterCathode
KT88 Connections Source: KT 88 GEC 1957 datasheet
Heater Voltage6,3VHeater Current1,8AmpMax Plate voltage600VMax Plate voltage800V peakMax Screen grid voltage600VTransconductance11,8mA/VPlate impedance12kOhmsScreen Grid dissipation7W maxPlate dissipation40W maxPlate current230mA max
specification and max ratings(*)
(*) These KT88 specifications are provided ’as-is’, with no warranty of any kind. Use of these parameters shall be entirely at the user’s own risk. GETTEROLOGY

Don’t we all want to read from the getter how good the tubes are ;) Well sometimes you can. And no, it is not as easy as you would like, because a bad getter indicates a defective tube. A tube with lots of use on it, but still working, naturally shows no ’defective’ getter. That is why getterology is of little use for most people. This becomes particularly clear, when tubes with obviously defective getters are praised on Ebay as excellent working, and both seller and buyer do not notice the bad getter, indicating the end is near. Strangely, there is no interest for this, though it is clear to see by the getter often, the tubes are rubbish.
More difficult is also the reverse situation: The getter looks fine (also to me) and when you test such tubes, they are rubbish. Here, the biggest mistake of all is made: Many think, a fine looking getter is the same as a fine working tube. This is simply not so.
So in short: A good getter means not the tubes are good. A bad getter means the tubes are bad, also when the optical situation look so nice for the rest of it.
Getterology1. It’s amazing how bad a KT88 getter can be and still the tube works. On the left picture you see a tube that was for sale an auction website. It is clearly visible that this getter has gray edges. Also some part of the getter is gone. This tube probably tests fine, but what the buyer doesn’t know is, most of the lifetime is gone.
Getterology2. On this picture you see two working, used tubes that were offered on Ebay, for very high prices. The left tube getter looks fine. The right tube has some of the getter edges gone as well, and the GEC stamp is badly burned. These are the brown type of getters, at the end of lifetime these start to develop concentric rings, of some blue-gray color and after more use, the edges begin to disappear. As a next step, the tube gets gassy, without the getter being white. At this moment of Ebay sales, they probably test still good.
Getterology3. I was send this picture by someone who found those on Ebay, and who was afraid they were fakes. Well, yes they are fakes. Inside is the Chinese KT88 system clearly visible.
What is even worse about these, they were offered as NOS, and they are in the box with a bad vacuum getter. You can see the gray ring around the getter. With all getters, the edges are thinner than the middle part. So once you see the edges are no metallic looking anymore, this means some part of the getter has been used up. This kind of getter wear out comes from use. This is not air leaking to the inside, but this is plate out gassing which causes this coloring. The print However, is clean, not burned. So this is a real bad case, old worn out Chinese tubes were cleaned, re branded and re boxed as Genalex.
Conclusions with those Gold Lion tubes:
*A great part of the lifetime is gone.
*Marking is faked. Inside is no Genalex KT88.
Fake Info Here is a typical worn out getter. Here is the same kind of getter, but still good.Matching of KT88
Bernardo Santos, from Brazil send those picture about selection of GEC. Thanks Bernardo!

This is how the GEC KT88 was selected. The text is: The Genalex Power Output tubes in these cartons have been matched to each other on the finest test equipment available. When tested these tubes were found to be within 1% of each other. The company is B.I.C. or BRITISH INDUSTRIES CORP. Port Washington, New York, USA.

This is how the B.I.C tubes look like. The sticker is a bit different from most others, but it is genuine, and inside is a genuine GEC tube. Note: Be careful, this sticker is being perfectly faked by the Chinese at the moment. So by itself this sticker means nothing anymore. These days are over. You can only trust the tube inside piece parts.
Above you see the test limits for the KT88. Not by just any company who was selling those, but by the one-and-only-real M-O Valve Co in London. This is historical rare information.
Note however, these certificates do NOT represent actual test data of the tubes in any way whatsoever. Though they do a great job in giving you that impression.
What is hand-written in there, is nothing but general information, and NOT related to the individual tubes inside the boxes. If you have 100 of those certificates, they are all the same. So on the one hand it is good they provided that information, at least they say the tubes comply with something. So you know how to check them, and you can say if they are good or not. I find this is a y way to the owner, by giving the impression this hand written data was collected. Well, this is NOT SO. If you are skilled with datasheets, and read these certificates carefully, you will see this is just hand written information which is copied from the standard datasheet. It is fine when the tubes comply with that, but if not they would have been rejects anyway. So this test certificate is plain bullshit. Made for amateurs that think many numbers are many good. On the other hand, don’t take it too negative, the MO tubes are great quality anyway. It is just the so called test data is for the birds. About GOLDEN LION Brand.
You need to know a few things here.
*The MO Valve company is not existing anymore. NEW SENSOR in New York today owns the brand rights of the ’GOLD LION’ brand. That is all they own. They do not use the original tools, neither are their new tools copies of the original tools. The GOLDEN LION tubes, sold by NEW SENSOR, are made in the Reflektor factory in Saratov Russia, and inside I see the plain old Electro Harmonix construction, as they used always, which resembles their 6L6 optically. Which for me is not a real KT88. Sorry. You can think of this what you want, and you should. The Golden Lion tubes made by new Sensor have nothing to do with the originals, made by the MO Valve company. Also, the quality of New Sensor doesn’t even close. The boxes and printing, and optics are perfect quality. Better than the tubes itself. I have sold the New Sensor for some years, and I was extremely disappointed by the tubes, as well as refusal to serve guarantee. Dealers get there only 90 days after receival. So when they store the tubes for 90 days, they can sell to the end customer for whatever the conditions are, but the dealer itself gets no guarantee when there is something wrong. I don’t have to tell you, what the end customer’s chances are, when the dealer had the tubes in stock for mor e than 90 days, and tubes get defective. The ones I had, showed all the typical errors, KT88 can have. That is: Heater-to-grid shorts, after postal transport. Is the post to blame or the factory? I don’t know. All I know is, they damage too quickly. Another problem, the most occurring I had, was vacuum problems. The getters get bad edges at first, and emission seems lower. Though many times the tubes still work, I do not trust such tubes. Another problem I saw often, was screen grid current is too high, this over-heats the screen grid, the carbon layer evaporate

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